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Photograph by George Sakkestad Platter Matters: Marci and Laurie Calloway preside over Calloway's in Capitola. Deli Delights Calloway's offers a welcome dash of East Coast goodies in Capitola By Janet Blaser WHERE I GREW UP, delicatessens were a way of life. That was it, in fact: you grew up with your neighborhood deli. It symbolized food and family all in one--antipasto platters after church on Sunday, big, sloppy sandwiches with your friends after school and, finally, even romantic lunches with a sweetheart. Chances were good your first job would be there, behind the counter, feeding people you'd known all your life. Well, that was years ago in New York. Out here in Northern California, I've found the deli pickins to be pretty slim. So for me, the addition of Calloway's in Capitola Village is a welcome one, and a long-needed one in that neck of the woods, too. Judging from the reception the husband-and-wife team of Marci and Laurie Calloway have been receiving from their neighbors these last three months, other folks have been longing for a deli to call their own, too. The former Chinese restaurant has been transformed into a friendly, eye-catching space with an abundance of natural light, elegant displays of wine and gourmet goodies, and a deli case and kitchen along one wall. The top of the counter is lined with plates of fresh pastries baked in-house every morning in the wee hours--blueberry coffee cake, cinnamon rolls, apple turnovers, luscious muffins, scones galore ... yum. But besides the wide selection of the above-mentioned morning munchies, gourmet hot or cold sandwiches, house-made soups and a smorgasbord of equally unique cold salads, Calloway's also offers a tapas menu of classic, exotic and gourmet entree items, all available individually portioned for easy munching. Marci, the culinary expert of the operation, comes to Capitola via the Los Gatos world of fine dining. Trained at the Culinary Academy of San Francisco, at Calloway's she's gotten the opportunity to combine her professional expertise with a maternal heritage of knowing her way around a kitchen. That means you'll find everything from a classic meat loaf to shrimp paella and tiny racks of lamb. Marci told me that what's become a big favorite is her shepherd's pie--a simple recipe made with ground lamb and vegetables topped with a mashed-potato crust. You can eat your goodies at one of a handful of tables, or if you're lucky, you can snag a spot on the window seat right in front of the big bay window that looks out on the sparkling sea and the nearby wharf. The curved black granite wine bar offers more seating, as well as a chance to chat with Laurie, an ex-pro soccer coach whose new career behind the bar seems to fit him well. He is full of stories and presides over an abundance of good wines, all yours to taste for the asking, at any hour of the day or night. Calloway's is open from about 7am to 9-ish at night for food and "till the last customer leaves" for wine tasting (although local laws decree that's by 1:30am). The deli is closed Tuesdays. You can call in orders or get more info at 465.9225, and the actual address is 209 Esplanade, Capitola. [ Santa Cruz Week | MetroActive Central | Archives ]