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A Rosy Future

Chef Scott Cater has returned to whip up a delicious culinary revival at SC's Casablanca

By Christina Waters

VISITING CASABLANCA last week felt like old times as we watched the last traces of sunset polish the waves below. Overlooking the palms of the Cocoanut Grove, the lights of the wharf and the lighthouse silhouetted against the sky, the dining landmark affords romantic views in keeping with its white linens, glowing candlelight and gleaming brass fixtures.

Sitting at our favorite window seat overlooking Santa Cruz's main beach, one of the best views was of the Casablanca menu, where returning chef Scott Cater has coaxed a fresh spin from familiar California cuisine standards. Always known as a place where patrons could indulge their traditional tastes as well as sample contemporary ideas, the menu still stocks fried brie with jalapeño jelly, escargot en croute and even Beluga caviar. Filet mignon and New York steak are as firmly entrenched on this non-trendy menu as seafood specialties.

Nonetheless, the classics have been refreshed with items like a Napoleon of portobello mushrooms and grilled vegetables. And there was a new appetizer of seared duck breast with plum sauce that caught my eye. My response was to order 1986 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Clos Du Mont Olivet ($6.50/$27), a gorgeous Rhône wine, big with syrah grapes, that kept up with what was to be a wonderful meal.

It's fair to say that I've never been guilty of ignoring an order of fine gravlax, especially one as straightforwardly presented, as chewy and silken, as the caper-strewn appetizer we ordered that evening ($7.95). Yet, that's what happened the minute we tasted the sensational duck breast ($6.95), fanned out in buttery, rich slices against a pool of complex salty/sweet/tart sesame-laced plum sauce.

Not only was this a dish for which the French seemed to have intended their red wine, but it represented the perfect pairing of fruity piquant sauce and earthy game. On the side was a toss of fresh greens, and the entire creation had been lightly dusted with black sesame seeds. For a dollar less than the lovely-but-predictable gravlax, this duck dish was a miracle.

My companion nursed his Lighthouse Amber from Santa Cruz Brewing Company and I enjoyed my wine as we split an order of the house salad ($4.95), a mix of lettuces doused (in this case a bit too liberally) with an intensive Pommery mustard vinaigrette. Since no restaurant in this area can afford not to have great bread, Casablanca savvily serves warmed, sliced loaves of the excellent Beaucaire, sweet French bread created by Kelly's. The tangy salad and fine bread set us up for the main attractions.

My order of Hawaiian mahi-mahi was a plush and generous serving of two moist filets of this finely textured fish arranged vertically on top of a bed of excellent sautéed vegetables ($18.95). The fingerling carrots had true developed flavor and the yellow peppers had been slow roasted into sweet submission. This satisfying dish was simply adorned with a sesame beurre blanc that reminded me why there is no substitute for butter.

Another entree--rack of lamb--was even bolder in flavor, yet just as unpretentiously presented ($21.95). Cut into large double chops, the rare lamb was tender and delicious, heightened by a superb fresh raspberry sauce, infused with demi-glacé and the heady undertone of black truffles. More of the freshly sautéed vegetables, as well as a few grilled new potatoes, joined the lamb. My companion--utterly smitten, and he's not easy--managed to consume all traces of the thick, deep burgundy-hued sauce.

Our most recent night at Casablanca was easily our finest meal there in years. Kudos to chef Scott Cater and company, and a special salute to that amazing duck appetizer.

Casablanca Restaurant

Address: 101 Main St., Santa Cruz

Phone: 426-9063

Hours: Dinner nightly from 5pm; Sunday brunch 9:30am-2pm

Cuisine: California/New American

Ambiance: Smart, romantic

Service: Friendly, informed

Price: Moderate to expensive, good value

Overall: *** Memorable dining on a new roll

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