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Art Beat

Mycologically Challenged

By Marlow de Ville

Is nature wild, or what!?! Some of the most exquisitely subtle flavors, as well as some of the most lethal poisons, reside in the lowly mushroom, a subterranean dweller that likes to make guest appearances only after ample rainfall. All of this means that it's the season for two of our mushroom-intensive region's favorite events.

I can only be referring to the 22nd annual Santa Cruz Fungus Fair, spreading its provocative array of fungal finery at the Harvey West Park Clubhouse 10am-5pm on Saturday and Sunday, and the delectable Fungus Feast, a multi-course mushroom feast held at India Joze Restaurant on Wednesday (6:30pm).

The reasons for an entire fair devoted to fungi should be obvious to all who have looked at the weird and intriguing display sprouting in their back yards this time of year. As many as 1,000 species of wild mushrooms are native to our area, and a few of them--like the brilliantly colored fly agaric and the legendary death cap--are quite poisonous. Others, like the oh-so-delicious black and golden chanterelles or earthy boletus, are prized by connoisseurs and restaurateurs.

The fair offers displays, cooking demos, chatty workshops and plenty of roving experts happy to talk mushrooms with you (admission $4/$3). The feast ($32 per person) will feature myriad mushroom specialties, from portabello stir fry to Agaricus bitorquis pâté on baguette. For more info, contact Julia Sauer at 429-3269.

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