Fogarty’s Fine Wine lovers have learned to expect the best from Thomas Fogarty wines, and the Palo Alto-based winery’s outstanding 2008 Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir is no exception. With winemaker Michael Martella at the helm, the 30-year-old winery has a reputation for vintages bearing distinctive vineyard characteristics and consistency. But who knew that a pinot for just over $20 could be rife with not only varietal signature—black cherries, cola and sassafras—but a complexity already well developed for such a young wine? In the time/space continuum, this pinot offers both duration (thanks to the optimum 14.1 percent alcohol) and breadth in a nimble arpeggio of middle notes and a long, slow finish. For those of you who, like me, crave a substantial partner for salmon and pork yet recoil from the over-oaked California pinots of (hopefully) the past, this lovely creation, at $21-22, will surprise and delight. Buy some to drink immediately and a few more to put away for another year.
Dollar Tacos. Seriously.There’s a new taqueria in Watsonville—no surprise there. But the new La Buena Taqueria at1425 Main Street is deliciously determined to stay authentic and traditional while taking all tastebuds for a spicy ride. La Buena has one of those seductive salsa bars from which you can choose the exact degree of heat for your tacos, quesadillas and burritos, thanks to homemade condiments and sauces. My money’s on the carnitas made from crisp braised pork tenderloin. Maybe the best introduction you can have to Watsonville’s newest taqueria is to stop by on a Tuesday, when the tacos are a rock-bottom $1 all day long. Yes, I did say one dollar. To find out more, call 831.722.1000.
On Our Plate The other night Angie and I sampled a plate of beautifully roasted rare venison atop a reduction of chocolate-spiked pinot noir—the sauce actually worked—served with polenta and baby carrots over at the Center Street Grill. It was the centerpiece dish of Jake Gandolfo’s big new idea for Sunday Suppers (and with dinner we enjoyed the aforementioned Thomas Fogarty Pinot Noir). . . . The other great plate of the week was dinner chez moi of buttery pork loin from El Salchichero, roasted, sliced and partnered with organic garnet yam and braised chard. My home chef whipped up a killer sauce of hot red chile jelly (thanks, Mateo!) and Dijon mustard to spike the splendid pork.
Send tips about food, wine and new dining discoveries to Christina Waters at xtina@cruzio.com. Read her blog at http://christinawaters.com.
