Tangier Joze An unforgettable and completely authentic Moroccan dining experience unfolded in the hearth of ethnocuisinartist Jozseph Schultz last Saturday evening. The occasion was a celebration of the Paul Bowles Centennial, and at the request of Bowles organizer Irene Herrmann, herself a world-travelled culinary master, Schultz pulled out all the spicy stops on his extensive north African repertoire and laid on course after course of sensuous specialties.
Appetizers included a spectacular presentation of bstilla, a round phyllo “pie” filled with chicken infused with ginger, cinnamon, cayenne and powdered sugar on top. A Sahara-sized platter of couscous tagine was laden high with aromatic chickpeas and gorgeous marinated vegetables. A dish of fish chermoula arrived heady with preserved lemon curry, and bowls of preserved lemon (a Joze signature) dotted the tables alongside fiery chile sauce. Great platters of braised lamb shanks with golden raisins and honey arrived along with fresh-from-the-oven flatbread. We were all besotted by this dinner! I’ve probably consumed three times my weight in Jozseph Schultz’ matchless cooking over the years, but have never had a finer dining odyssey than the meal last Sunday. The new India Joze Café, however tiny in size, should loom large on your dining short list.
Terroir 95470 Clever idea, having a zip code for a wine label. That’s just what Terroir 95470 is, a spin-off 2006 Sauvignon Blanc Redwood Valley, produced by Chance Creek Vineyard. A lovely creation weighing in at a perfect 13.5 percent alcohol and made from organic grapes, this is an astonishing bit of oeno-expertise for a mere $8.99 a bottle (thank you, New Leaf). I have socked away a stash of this versatile and lilting white wine, loaded with crisp citrus and minerals. It partners fish, chicken, pungent cheeses and pork loin equally well, offering a spacious middle with only a suspicion of oak in the distance. The long finish offers tart licorice, some bitter orange and ephemera of lychee and limestone. Truly a friendly creation, especially to the wallet.
Top Plates This week that would be two luscious seafood entrees created by Ben Sims over at Ristorante Avanti. On my plate a plump slab of sea bass was frosted with lemon zesty tapenade and grounded by a cushion of cannellini beans, braised leeks and infant broccolini. Not to be forgotten is the ultra-comforting stew of succulent steelhead, bitter kale and carrots in a seafood and crème fraiche broth. Yeow! Add a crisp Austrian red wine and you’re there.
Send tips about food, wine and new dining discoveries to Christina Waters at xtina@cruzio.com. Read her blog at http://christinawaters.com.
