Chef Telos Delosil of Gabriella Café created an appetizer this week so gorgeous and tasty that it needed closer examination. The plate in question involved roasted Live Earth beets—pink, red and yellow—arranged on a narrow plate and strewn attractively with candied citrus zest, guajillo chili emulsion, some feisty greens called “castlefranco” and a provocative dusting of something Delosil calls “chocolate hazelnut soil.” I needed to know more about that delicious soil, which clearly referenced the freshness of the just-harvested ingredients. “It was influenced by a dish I used to make in a restaurant in Mendocino, and also by something David Kinch does at Manresa,” admitted the Gabriella chef, who like all artists, is inspired by the best prevailing concepts. “The idea is that the dish represents the soil of the local farmers, and I liked the bitter chocolate playing off the sweet beets.” The chocolate is also laced with ancho chili powder and espresso. The chef used candied lemon and orange peel “to bring out the sweetness” and the bitter greens to push back. Nice tension in every bite.
PEAS AND THE PRIUS The Aptos Farmers Market, the flagship of the Monterey Bay Certified Farmers Markets, will host the Toyota Farm to Table Tour on Saturday, April 9 from 8am to noon. The third year of this event will offer local market-goers loads of fresh tasting opportunities, thanks to a dozen top Santa Cruz chefs whipping up complimentary mini-tastings featuring fresh local ingredients. This event will provide market visitors a great opportunity to learn more about the market, its specialty farmers and vendors, chefs, and ways to eat and shop locally. In addition, guests will have the opportunity to experience Toyota’s newest hybrid vehicles. “The Tour highlights what we are all about: appreciation of our local farmers, locally grown produce, fine food and community, ” said market manager Catherine Barr. The event has already lined up culinary stylists from Papa O’s, H&H Fresh Fish, Ma Maison Restaurant, Gourmet to Go and Pleasure Pizza. A complete list of participating chefs and the demonstration schedule will be posted closer to the event date at: http://www.farmtotabletour.com.
TOP PLATE I’m wild about the fresh-baked spicy pumpkin bread/cake made by Live Oak Bakery and which I pick up—along with something in the key of French roast—at Coffeetopia on Mission Street.
Send tips about food, wine and new dining discoveries to Christina Waters at xtina@cruzio.com. Read her blog at http://christinawaters.com.
