Synonymous with New Year’s Eve, weddings and every celebratory event in between, champagne is less a drink than an affirmation of life. Planted long ago by thirsty Romans, the vineyards of France became the crucible for what would be the world’s most popular holiday elixir. A labor-intensive creation of the pinot and chardonnay grapes and filled with breathtaking effervescence, the sparkling wine labeled “champagne” must by law be produced in the northeastern French region of the same name. Thanks to a Benedictine monk named Perignon and his attention to bubbles created by residual sugar fermentation, we are all the beneficiaries of methode champenoise, the hallmark of authenticity separating every decent sparkling wine from cheap swill artificially injected with carbon dioxide. Two fermentations and two bottlings add to the complexity of making this heady tipple. And to the price tag.
Considered the ne plus ultra of its type, French champagne is the priciest, with vintage bottlings of Roederer Cristal hitting the $200 mark. But there are wonderful bubblies to be had for considerably less from California, Spain and Italy as well as non-champagne districts of France itself. In Santa Cruz, VinoCruz is one of the smart shops carrying the elegant, earthy brightness of Lucien Albrecht’s Cremant d’Alsace, a champagne-style sparkling wine for $22 packaged in a beautiful glossy red gift box. VinoCruz, New Leaf and other fine stores also carry Santa Cruz’ only locally created methode champenoise sparkler, from Equinox ($40). Made from Trout Gulch chardonnay and pinot grapes, Equinox is a crisp number surging with very tiny bubbles and makes a delicious and effervescent “made in Santa Cruz” gift to give, or to toast.
Shoppers Corner, long a magnet for aficionados, features no fewer than 70 different champagnes, cava, proseccos, sparklers and bubblies from all over the world, priced from the humble yet serviceable Mumm Napa ($16) to the noble Roederer Brut Premier ($45). In between dance a range of wonderful holiday sparklers, such as a trio of Gruet beauties, including a rosé, a blanc de blanc and a blanc de noir, all under $15. For affordable bubbles in a sexy blush hue, look no further than New Mexico’s surprising Gruet Rosé. This is a bubbly to be poured unapologetically. And since it is made in New Mexico, it’s also a guaranteed conversation piece. The reliable Scharffenberger ($20) joins the glacier-dry Schramsberg Blanc de Blanc ($35) as a California vintage worthy of toasting.
From the champagne house that helped to perfect the entire concept of sparkling wines late in the 18th century, Veuve Clicquot pours forth reliable ecstasy—zippy acidity and fruit/mineral balance—delivered by vigorous micro-bubbles. This fine champagne, made from a blend of pinot noir and chardonnay, suggests stone fruit and hints of vanilla in a pale golden liquid. Available in the couple-friendly split ($25) as well as the party-sized 750 ml ($40), it’s my house bubbly.
Yes, there can be recession parties—especially since Segura Viudas makes an unapologetic Brut Reserva for under $10 a bottle. This respectable Spanish cava pumps out bubbles filled with citrusy freshness. From its dry, yeasty opening to a very crisp mineral finish, this is a surprising value.
Soif is carrying close to 50 sparklers for the holidays, notably rare and little-known labels from the heart of European champagne country. Of note—and perfect for rich, fatty appetizers like salame—is an organic sparkler from Italy’s Emilia-Romano district, a tannic dark red lambrusca from Vigneto Saetti ($18) A beautiful deep crimson wine, the lambrusca is made of organic grapes whose light frizzante delivers enough bite to happily partner with the richest holiday meats and appetizers.
Full of the unmistakable top notes of apple cider is a lively Cremant de Jura ($24), a methode champenoise made from the Jura district of eastern France. Part chardonnay, part savagnin, it’s a very creamy, savory tipple from Berthet-Bondet. For something wildly distinctive, try Eric Bordelet’s Poiré Granit ($16), a sparkling pear cider made from 300-year-old pear trees in France. Finally, one of my new favorites is a German Riesling Rheingau Sekt 2006 from Solter ($20), loaded with tiny bubbles, green apples and minerals with a rounded, yeasty finish.
The bottom line for hosts and guests alike this holiday season is that sparkling wine goes with anything, from osso bucco to pasta and salmon to camembert. Bone-dry champagne adores salty companions, from niçoise olives to nachos, and is a wonderful accompaniment to after-dinner biscotti and fruit desserts. Sweeter Italian prosecco is a natural with appetizers such as smoked salmon and sweet desserts, while Spanish cava is perfect with marcona almonds and cured meats such as salames and prosciutto.
Make no mistake—there isn’t a food known to woman that doesn’t go with sparkling wine. There simply are no serving errors when it comes to bubbly. It goes quite well with kisses, too.
