The trio working expertly through jazz improvs and sultry bossa nova had us from the first riff. The view outside flaunted an array of late-in-the-day sunbathers, foamy white surf and the splendor of the Boardwalk's Casino turning gold in the setting sun. We were at Aquarius to sample the reinvented American cuisine by new executive chef Craig Mattox, on what was to be a memorable and romantic evening.
Everything about our dinner on the new Steak & Jazz Thursday at Aquarius was deliciously retro. From decor to food, the evening was a glamorous revival of modernism. Clear ideas, boldly presented, with no irony or ethnic fusion.
The generously spaced interior, with sculptural lighting and extremely comfortable chairs, seemed in complete accord with the mood and menu. Very sixties, with cool jazz morphing into Diana Krall and Sinatra standards, and on to Astrud Gilberto. Every inch the understated resort that it is, the Dream Inn flatters its guests with the best panorama in town.
The smooth concept extended from the music—romantic and sophisticated—to the menu, an unapologetic re-think of the steakhouse concept, strong on locally sourced seasonal vegetables and the inventive touch of chef Mattox, whose career began at the Hyde Park Culinary Institute, and continued on to top kitchens in Boston, Las Vegas, Palm Springs and most recently Tender Greens, an organic restaurant in Los Angeles. Generous pours of Kathryn Kennedy Lateral and Joel Gott Cabernet Sauvignon helped us do justice to the menu. Just watching the changing hues reflected in the waves of Cowell Beach made for blissful meditation, and it didn't take long for us to give in to the spell. A salad of iceberg wedges, atop sliced yellow and red heirloom tomatoes, with dice of pancetta and rich bleu cheese accents was a terrific starter. Cabaret standards turned to sensuous bossa nova, and our dinner grew pleasantly romantic.
An entree of pan seared duck breast atop a pool of artisanal peach marmalade was partnered with exceptional local chard, laced with slices of toasted garlic. We were both impressed with the glistening emerald chard, coaxed to new flavor depths by Mattox's kitchen. Another sparkling entree of local albacore reinforced the chef's point—the dish is a complete creation, not simply a main item with a few afterthoughts.
A pretty “hash” of roasted fennel, bell pepper and potatoes, joined by bits of fresh crab in a crab broth, formed the platform for the moist albacore. This was as fine a seafood dish as I've had in Santa Cruz for many years. Living up to the “Steak & Jazz” billing, our New York Strip, with its accompanying sauce Béarnaise, was another moment of retro intelligence. This classic French sauce knows how to romance a good piece of beef, and so did we, along with roasted tri-color cauliflower and, yes, baked potato with sour cream and chives.
A pristine ocean view, smooth jazz, a gathering of time-honored, yet reinvented American culinary ideas—this dining room has it all. Plus, it's a perfect place (the jazz Thursday concept) to discover, or remember, romance. The sensitivity to vegetables and the straight-ahead treatment of steak, seafood and poultry give this Aquarius menu staying power, rather than momentary diversion. Chef Mattox's menu isn't a tricky critique of modernism, it is modernism. Pure, clear flavors are the point here. Incredibly delicious. The only other thing I would have liked last Thursday was a dance floor. Bossa nova always does that to me.
Aquarius is downstairs in the Dream Inn, 175 West Cliff Dr., Santa Cruz.
