Zach Davis, along with Kendra Baker, will be taking on yet another Santa Cruz dining project: Pop Up. Photo by Chip Scheuer.
Assembly Team Pops Up: Sleep is not an option for Kendra Baker and Zach Davis, who have launched yet another in an endless string of big ideas in food performance even as the dishes are barely dry from their gala preview event at the Del Mar Theatre last week. The Penny Ice Creamery owners have devised yet another eating concept, almost as a prelude to the impending (early March?) opening of their large-scale new downtown Santa Cruz restaurant Assembly. That concept is Pop Up, named for the edgy vogue for sudden, impromptu foodie happenings. Pop Up will serve as a venue, not only for sudden gourmet ops, but as a showcase for intriguing adventures in extreme dining. For example, San Francisco chef Anthony Myint will finesse a pop up lunch on March 3. Can retail options and other timely, but as-yet undesignated gatherings be far behind?
Where Legends Meet: The cozy and nostalgically-named Jack O'Neill Lounge in the Dream Inn launched this week, complete with a giant outdoor photographic mural, and a special commemorative cocktail. Figuring that one good brand deserves another, Dream Inn's savvy marketing team celebrated the colorful life of surf legend Jack O'Neill by re-naming the landmark hotel's waterfront lounge after him. A long list of new cocktails, including the aptly named “The Legend”—using O'Neill's favorite Ketel One vodka, a touch of vermouth and an olive garnish—marks the event. The crusty surf legend himself was on hand to say a few words for the occasion on the exact spot, overlooking Steamers, that his first retail shop opened in 1959. The christening of the lounge reminds locals that the Dream Inn lounge, with its surfboard-covered ceiling, is not only steeped in legend, but continues to reinvent itself in the best tradition of Santa Cruz. Food and beverage manager Gus Siggins has some tasty specials on offer, and with its new indoor and outdoor photo displays the lounge is more than ever a room with a view.
Laili Takes the Gold: At dinner last night with our friends Alan and Linda, we were reminded all over again just why Laili continues to thrive even in uncertain times. This attractive restaurant housed inside a 19th century landmark bank has an outstanding menu criss-crossing the Silk Roads with a bit of New World Mediterranean thinking. We paired a bottle of robust Malbec (a logical choice given the spice-laden cuisine) with a shared starter of garlicky hummus, babaghanoush, tabbouleh and cool cucumber yogurt, all of which we scooped up with pliant lavosh bread. While Linda decided on the evening's special flatbread with goat cheese, pears and pickled onions—stunning—the rest of us pampered our carnivore instincts with kabob entrees of filet mignon and lamb. All of the meats were perfectly grilled, which in the case of my filet mignon meant rare. On each of our long rectangular plates, four large cubes of meat had been placed next to a long mound of saffron-perfumed rice laced with carrots. Of the three accompanying sauce/chutneys, the yogurt was ultra creamy, but it was the fiery chile mint chutney that made my palate dance. A generous garnish of romanesco cauliflower and okra anchored the other side of the platter. But the beef was the star. I have rarely tasted filet mignon in steak houses that was this tender and full-flavored. Jack's rare lamb was so spot on that he began planning our next visit to Laili even as we were walking out the door. Who knew that the best steak in town was at a Middle Eastern/Mediterranean dining room? Well, obviously the full house of fellow diners knew. Now we do, too.
